If your dryer needs two cycles to dry a normal load, the problem is almost always the vent, not the machine. A dryer dries by pushing hot, moist air outside; when the duct is restrictive, that damp air has nowhere to go, so it stays in the drum and the clothes stay wet.

Why the vent is usually the culprit

The restriction adds up: a long run, tight bends, ribbed flexible duct, lint buildup, or an exterior cap with a stuck damper each cut the airflow. Together they choke the exhaust so the dryer runs hot and long without actually drying. The machine is fine. It just cannot breathe.

What to check

  • Pull the dryer out and look for crushed or kinked duct behind it.
  • Check for ribbed foil or plastic flex, which traps lint and should be replaced with rigid duct.
  • Go outside and confirm the exterior flap opens freely when the dryer runs.
  • Feel the run for lint clogs, and note how long and twisty the route is.

Common mistakes

  • Cleaning the lint screen but never the duct itself.
  • Leaving long, sagging flex runs that collect lint and moisture.
  • An exterior cap painted shut or jammed with a damper that no longer opens.

When to call a sheet metal contractor

If the run is long, buried in flex, or you cannot easily reach it to clear it, rebuilding the vent in smooth rigid duct on the shortest practical route restores the airflow, and keeps the lint from coming back as a fire risk.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is a slow dryer a sign of a vent problem or a broken dryer?

Most often the vent. Before assuming the dryer is failing, check the duct: a long or kinked run, ribbed flex, lint buildup, or a stuck exterior damper all trap moist air so clothes stay damp. Clearing or rebuilding the vent fixes the drying in most cases.

Need ductwork or ventilation help?

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